Planet Ancients

An aggregated feed of blogs written by Society of Ancients members. Note - it may not all be related to ancient and medieval history, and/or to wargaming. Hopefully most of it is.

In Praise of Warmaster Ancients

Back in the days when DBM was king, it was my preferred system for playing games with 15mm figures. That did not mean that I did not have my doubts about the system including the way that chance could have such a great effect not only on the ability to move but combats. The strength of DBM was that it was so universal, practically everywhere you went you could get a game of DBM against someone you had never met before. But the decision of both of the DBM rule designers to go their separate ways for future rules development almost gave us permission to explore other rule sets. So I, like others hunted around for another ruleset to satisfy our gaming urges. In the end – after trying several of the current rules – I settled on Warmaster Ancients, written by Rick Priestly and sold by Warhammer Historical. The rules are a modification of the Games Workshop fantasy rules and in common with their normal rules the first thing you need is loads of dice. Since Warmaster Ancients does not get a lot of mention in Slingshot, it seems worthwhile giving you a quick view of how it works and why I like it.

Movement is done by rolling dice and comparing the roll with the commanders leadership value. If you pass the test then the unit or group of units being ordered to move, can indeed move. If the commander fails a roll then that’s it, no more orders from them for the rest of the turn. If the overall army commander fails a roll then no more orders can be issued for that army for this turn. If a double six is rolled then as well as failing to give the order successfully, a Blunder has occurred and another die is rolled to see what unpredictable event has happened. The command roll is influenced by how far the commander is from the units he is trying to order and number of other factors like proximity to the enemy and casualties suffered. Units or groups of units can be given up to 3 successive orders in a turn, so units can move up to 90cm in a turn but each further order makes it harder to make a successful roll. Better leaders give a higher chance of success but nothing guarantees a successful roll, it is not uncommon to have units sitting there doing nothing as the enemy advance upon them but there is always the refuge of the Initiative order allowing units to make an automatic move when then enemy are within 20cm, instead of commanders attempting to give them orders. Initiative moves are inflexible but at least stop the horror of not being able to do anything if the enemy are close and your dice have been poor. Some people like movement controlled by dice rolls, I must admit I am not a fan but better commanders give you greater chance of getting your troops to go where you want them to be and the Initiative move gives you a last chance to do something even if the dice fail. Another plus for the Warmaster movement system is that you can get some really large moves that greatly add to the fluidity of the game.

Shooting – like combat – is extremely simple, roll a dice to hit and another die is rolled by the opposing player if the enemy unit has armour in an attempt to stop the hit from wounding the unit. Three wounds will normally remove a base from a unit and a unit normally has 3 bases. Wounds which have not removed a base are removed from units at the end of turn unless the unit is in combat. In other words they are lost. Shooting tends to drive the enemy back rather than inflict enough casualties to remove bases but also has a chance of causing Confusion in the target unit. Confusion means that the unit will not be able to receive orders in their own turn and is at reduced effectiveness in melee. But with sufficient missile troops, you can shoot a unit to death, especially if it has no save. In a siege game, I managed to destroy a section of wall and was preparing to advance through it, when my opponent used to the ineffectiveness of normal shooting deployed a unit in the gap created by the destroyed section. The concentrated fire of my siege artillery totally destroyed the unit in one round of – lucky – shooting, which was a surprise to both of us.

Combat is like shooting but with more dice rolled, each base of troops will have a number of attacks specified for its troop type. Normally it is a simple roll of 4 or more to hit but if the enemy counts as defended or fortified it will reduce this. Combat is simultaneous but chargers get a bonus for charging and reduce the number of dice that the enemy fight with, if they happen to attack them in the flank or rear. As with shooting, armour saves apply, so well armoured troops take less casualties in combat. There are two rounds of combat fought each turn and if you wipe out your opponents, you can advance into another enemy and fight two more rounds of combat that turn. As you can imagine combat tends to be decisive. Unarmoured units can be wiped out in one round of combat, even well armoured troops gradually take casualties and become ineffective even if you could mange to give them orders. The best way to attack is to hit an enemy in the flank which reduces their effectiveness and reduces your own losses. Frontal attacks with good troops can succeed but to truly work the enemy needs to be hit with multiple units, not isolated attacks.

Commanders principle role is to issue orders to units but they can add extra dice to a units attacks if they choose to join a unit. The penalty is that if the unit they are with is wiped out, they are lost as well. Normally commanders are invulnerable but if the enemy move through a commander, they force the commander to join the nearest friendly unit where of course they can be destroyed if you wipe the unit out. In fact killing the enemy army general is one of the methods to win the game.

Army lists are included in the main rules and there are two supplements specifically of army lists, ancients and medieval. The supplements include changes to the rules especially for the use of skirmishers which really make the game work. I am glad to say that skirmishers actually shoot in Warmaster Ancients, one of my beefs with DBM was that skirmishers ‘shooting’ was only done in combat. The rules are no longer in print but copies seem to be available online second hand. The amendments are also available online and I recommend using them.

The rules are simple but like with chess, the application of them, make the game. Luck is of course a factor but with many dice being rolled, one or two bad die rolls will not affect the game. I said I was looking to play games with my 15mm figures but Warmaster Ancients tend to be played with 6mm or 10mm figures. So I now have armies in both those scales to play locally, all based on the standard 40x20 mm base used by Warmaster. DBM used 40mm width elements and I am happy that I could use my 15mm figures for Warmaster if anyone was interested, without having to re-base them. Now we know the rules, our games last between one or two hours. I have some battle reports up on the CACK wargames club site under historical battles if you are interested.

Sumerian infantry and battlecar

Sumerian Battlecar - Castaway Arts






I thought I'd post some pictures of my Sumerians for a change of pace and period. I've got two early Sumerian armies, one from the city of Lagash and the other from the city of Ur, that I've been slowly painting up over time. I've posted pictures of the Royal Guard of Lagash before on this blog - http://satrapminiatures.blogspot.com.au/2011/06/sumerians.html.

I've planning armies of two divisions about 300 points for Hail Caesar. I've already got most of the figures, a mix of Castaway Arts, Cutting Edge, Eureka, Foundry and Newline but will get some more battlecars when Cutting Edge release their range later in the year.

Under the Hail Caesar lists (pp.9-10) the battlecars or onager chariots '...because of the ferocious ill temper and legendary intractability of the wild ass' roll a blunder on 11 or 12 when giving orders to the unit or any division they're part of! I'll post photos of more Sumerian figures, as well as photos of Sumerian artifacts and weapons from the British Museum and Istanbul Archaeological Museums shortly.


Royal Guard of Ur - Eureka, Cutting Edge Miniatures and Castaway Arts
Spearmen of Ur - Eureka figures with a Castaway drummer
Spearmen marching in column
Sumerian slingers - Castaway
Sumerian slingers - Eureka
Sumerian/Akkadian archers - Eureka
Sumerian archers - Castaway
Amorite/Gutian archers - Castaway

Welcome Satrap Miniatures Blog

Welcome to the latest blog to be added to the Planet Ancients feed: Satrap Miniatures Blog (http://satrapminiatures.blogspot.com.au/) by Michael Peck.

Welcome

Hi. This blog has been created purely to provide news on and for the Planet Ancients blog aggregation feed, run by and for the Society of Ancients.

Antonine’s Folly

 I have agreed to arrange the first of what are hoped to be five Impetus events in Scotland in 2012.  This will be held on Sunday 22nd April at the Newlands Community Centre in Grangemouth which is the normal meeting place of the Falkirk & District Wargames Club.
 
I call it an event rather than a tournament because although it will count towards the Impetus world rankings these are intended to be relaxed affairs where Impetus players from across Scotland (plus anyone from further afield who wants to participate) can get together for some friendly games against different opponents and armies to those they would normally face in their home club. Impetus novices are welcome and won’t feel out of place.
 
There were two Impetus events in Scotland in 2011 which I took part in and found to be very enjoyable despite my lack of experience with the rules.  We have developed a system to underpin this philosophy which worked well last year and has been carried forward into 2012.  Armies from the full Impetus period are allowed but the players are divided into groups to match them to the closest historical opponents available.  These are then tweaked to spread members from the same club across the groups to try to avoid them playing each other.  In the 2011 competitions the groups were of four which enabled historical(ish) round robins to be played in each and everyone had at least 2 games against players from outside their club.  Terrain is fixed throughout to offer advantages and challenges to different types of army during the day.

Further details will be posted on the Impetus forum at http://impetus.forumsland.com/impetus-about3161.html  which is also where you can sign up.  If any Society of Ancients players are taking part and our paths cross, how about making it a Society of Ancients Championship game as well?

Oh and why Antonine’s Folly?  Well as the organiser I gave myself the naming rights.  The path of the Antonine wall passes within a mile of the venue so there is a strong local connection.  It was only manned for some 20 years between 142 AD and 162 AD (briefly reoccupied in 208 AD) so to me that seemed to be the ancient equivalent of a folly.  I liked the sound of it and could not think of anything better, so Antonine’s Folly it is.

New Battlements


DSCF0248

Having found some new information - first of all remembering that Simon James' book "The Excavations at Dura-Europos 1928 to 1937 - Final Report: v. 7: The Arms and Armour and Other Military Equipment" has some information on the siege, and on the defences, and also having come across some useful photos on the world wide web (thanks Richard!)…

Blitzkrieg Commander 2 late war battle Russian vs German

January 1945 – Eastern Front
Scenario 4 Deliberate Attack
Jason and Simon/Oliver – 2000 points Late War Germans – Defenders (1000 points each)
Robb and Justin – 3000 points Late War Russians – Attackers (1500 points each)
This is a set-piece attack with the aim of capturing a terrain feature such as a hill, village, or a area of a town or city. The attacker has 50% more points available than the defender and may purchase assets for scheduled artillery and air support. The defender deploys first up to the table centre, may purchase one artillery asset per off table artillery unit, and may purchase field defences for fixed defence. The attacker should deploy opposite the defender using static deployment. (It also said Flank deployment but this would make it far to easy for the attacker).
The attacker should occupy the objective within 12 turns to achieve a minor victory and within 9 turns to achieve a major victory. The game is limited to 12 turns with the attacker taking the first turn.

Pictures of the game.

The German high command
020212_01[1] 

The German defensive line starting their left and moving right
020212_02[1] 

the centre, the hub of the German defense
020212_03[1] 

and on the right, mostly infantry
020212_04[1] 

All good positions, using cover but IMHO the tanks were too close to the front (and in the case of the Tiger on the hill, too far back) and invited defeat in detail, which is precisely what the Russian plan was.

Russian attack, we decided to throw everything at the centre and overwhlem the German defenders. There was also a nice road taking us straight to the hill (our objective) at the back of the table
020212_05[1] .
The Russian forces were simple, just tanks with tank riders on the back (they would have looked silly being balanced on the back of the tanks, so you will have to imagine them).

The plan is going well with the IS2s heading down the road and already 2 German tanks are burning, whilst another has been suppressed and forced back from the hedge into the wood. The Tiger on the hill is shooting at us but has so far proved ineffective.
020212_06[1] 
The plan goes horribly wrong when the advancing Russian tanks get their orders confused (roll a blunder)  and instead turn on the road trying to destroy the German infantry but blocking the road and exposing themselves to flank  and rear shots.
020212_07[1] 

Its a mess, the Russian attack has stalled and under a hail of mortar fire and a German counter-attack (with the lone remaining PziV) Russian tanks are burning and the Russian infantry are being mown down by German machine guns.
020212_08[1] 

020212_09[1] 

But the hill is clear, the Tiger was hit, suppressed and forced to fall back, straight off the edge of the table. The Soviet objective is clear, all we have to do is get there.
020212_10[1] 

Game over (I think it took 5 turns), we did not get to the objective but the casualties the Germans suffered meant that their forces broke and we won the day. On to bigger and better games next time
020212_11[1]

On the painting tray: February 2012

Slow progress continues to be made on Anne Boleyn in between batches of work on the Plataea project.  For that, I've just finished 24 hoplites for Willie, plus I have 36 plastic Immortal Miniatures hoplites in various stages of semi-preparedness.  These are also for Willie, and will be used for the Tegeans and their pals at Plataea.  I really like these figures, but I do find the gluing rather tedious.  My painting time is relatively limited, and spending large amounts of it constructing multi-part figures is a bit self-defeating.  This is not a criticism of these products, since I know that this is exactly the aspect that appeals to other gamers, but it does make them something of a chore for folks like me.  I don't mind doing it once every so often, though, and they do make a nice change from metals.  Ultimately, what matters is the end result.  Since I had the glue out anyway, I did the basic work on 36 Foundry Immortals plus a command base for my contribution to the cause of civilisation at Plataea.

Speaking of which, I'm also about to order the second of my three batches of cork for the table top.  I'm planning to paint as much of the figures as possible between now and the end of March, and then construct the battlefield itself.  If I can concentrate on that, it should be done relatively quickly.

(Note the edit!) Comparing Tin Soldier and Xyston Gallic Infantry

In response to some interest shown in the last post on Gauls, here are some photos showing Xyston and Tin Soldier Gauls in close proximity. 

Do note though that I'm using the older packs of Xyston Gauls (18250 and 18251, now recombined into 20036).  I don't know what the ones from the newer packs are like.  If you want the Xyston packs I have, go to Brookhurst Hobbies which has them on special at the moment.

Tin Soldier chaps are on the ends with square bases; Xyston in the centre with oval bases. 


You'll notice that there's actually quite a bit of variety in height between the tallest and the shortest of the Xyston.  The taller ones are an almost perfect match for the Tin Soldier fellows; the shorter Xyston are a little smaller.


In this picture below you can see the difference between a TS standard and Xyston's shortest. (2nd and 3rd figures from the right, respectively).


And again, without the foreshortening.


Some shots from the rear...




Swords are of the same length, and shields match very well.  In the picture below the top row of shields is all Xyston, the bottom TS.


For my money the two ranges go together very well.  I've gone for a ratio of about 5 packs of TS for every 2 of Xyston, and am pretty sure I'll be very happy with the finished army.  If you want a price comparison, TS are GBP 2 a pack, Xyston are GBP 3.50.

Be warned that for cavalry all bets are off - you can't mix 'em, it's as simple as that.  Tin Soldier are close to 20mm (In fact I would have no problems using them with other 20mm) and the Xyston seem a little smaller than their own infantry.

Here's a link to the TS page showing the various figures they have in their Gallic range.

Any questions or any other shots you'd like to see, fire away!

EDIT - a chap on TMP vigorously disagrees with my assessment, so I took another look.

Here are shots of more of the TS figures mixed in with Xyston (TS have the square bases):




He is partly right - the armoured TS Gauls are definitely bigger than the other sets in their range and do not mix well with the Xyston.  Those are packs C3 & C4.  I still maintain the other packs are a good mix; though the wide-faced fellows of C10 and C11 may not be everyone's cup of tea.

So, I recommend packs C5, C9, C12 unhesitatingly.  Packs C8, C10 and C11 suit me but may not suit others.  Packs C3 and C4 are probably too big.  The naked Gaesati types I don't know, as I didn't pick any up.

Thanks to General Montcalm for his thoughts!

Welcome to the new blog!

I am really hoping this is now working! I have had a complete battle getting the RSS feeds working so that anyone subscribed or following the old blog will actually see new posts on this blog. I think this is now working as I’ve looked at a couple of blogs I know follow the blog and the various test posts were at the top of the lists! So hopefully, if you are reading this you will have seen it in your ‘Blogs I Follow’ type widget.

So what is happening? Well you can read a little about the decisions leading to the move on the front page and the About page. But what I hope you’ll see over the coming weeks are:

  • more frequent posts about the hobby and what I’m doing
  • reviews of magazines (Miniature Wargames, Battlegames, Wargames, Soldiers and Strategy, Slingshot)
  • galleries showing my armies and projects
  • my ImagiNation – lots to come on this as I prepare for the 2012 Ayton game
  • game reports – IF I actually manage any!
  • show reports – hopefully starting with York this Sunday

So please comment on anything as feedback is much appreciate. And hopefully I’ll add a feedback/contact page soon!